20 Perennial Vegetables to Plant Once for Years of Food

close up image of fern fiddleheads

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Perennial vegetables—crops that you plant just once and harvest year after year—are relatively rare in North American gardens.

With the exception of asparagus, rhubarb and artichokes, most gardeners are probably unaware of the tasty, extremely low-maintenance bounty that can be harvested when many annual crops aren’t available.

A Brief History of Perennial Crops

According to Perennial Vegetables by Eric Toensmeier, most North American gardening and farming traditions come from Europe, where there are very few perennial crops except fruits and nuts.

Cold and temperate Eurasian agriculture centered around livestock, annual grains and legumes, and early European settlers to North America simply brought their seeds and their cultivation methods with them, including draft animals for plowing up the soil every year.

However, in more temperate and tropical areas of the world, including much of North America, perennial root, starch and fruit crops were actively bred, selected and cultivated. These perennial crops were favored perhaps because they require less work to grow, and lacking large domesticated draft animals, only hand tools were available for farming.

Whatever the origin of our neglect of these amazing plants, we shouldn’t ignore these useful and productive foods any longer. Perennial vegetables should be much more widely available, especially because, compared to annual crops, they tend to be more nutritious, easier to grow, more ecologically beneficial, and less dependent on water and other inputs.

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Benefits of Perennial Vegetables

Perennial Vegetables are Low Maintenance

Imagine growing vegetables that require just about the same amount of care as perennial flowers and shrubs—no annual tilling and planting. They thrive and produce abundant and nutritious crops throughout the season. Once established in the proper site and climate, perennial vegetables planted can be virtually indestructible despite neglect. Established perennials are often more resistant to pests, diseases, drought and weeds, too.

In fact, some perennials are so good at taking care of themselves that they require frequent harvesting to prevent them from becoming weeds themselves! The ease of cultivation and high yield is arguably the best reason for growing them.

Perennial Vegetables Extend the Harvest

Perennial vegetables often have different seasons of availability from annuals, which provides more food throughout the year. While you are transplanting tiny annual seedlings into your vegetable garden or waiting out the mid-summer heat, many perennials are already growing strong or ready to harvest.

Perennial Vegetables Can Perform Multiple Garden Functions

Many perennial vegetables are also beautiful, ornamental plants that can enhance your landscape. Others can function as hedges, groundcovers or erosion control for slopes. Other perennial veggies provide fertilizer to themselves and their neighboring plants by fixing nitrogen in the soil. Some can provide habitat for beneficial insects and pollinators, while others can climb trellises and provide shade for other crops.

Perennial Vegetables Help Build Soil

Perennial crops are simply amazing for the soil. Because they don’t need to be tilled, perennials help foster a healthy and intact soil food web, including providing habitat for a huge number of animals, fungi and other important soil life.

When well mulched, perennials improve the soil’s structure, organic matter, porosity and water-holding capacity.

Perennial vegetable gardens build soil the way nature intended by allowing the plants to naturally add more and more organic matter to the soil through the slow and stead decomposition of their leaves and roots. As they mature, they also help build topsoil and sequester atmospheric carbon.

Drawbacks of Perennial Vegetables

  • Some perennial vegetables are slow to establish and may take several years to grow before they begin to yield well. (Asparagus is a good example of this.)
  • Like many annuals, some perennial greens become bitter once they flower, therefore they are only available very early in the season.
  • Some perennials have strong flavors which many Americans are unaccustomed to.
  • Some perennials are so low-maintenance that they can quickly become weeds and overtake your garden, or escape and naturalize in your neighborhood. (Daylilies are a good example of this.)
  • Perennials vegetables need to be careful placed into a permanent place in your garden, and will have to be maintained separately from your annual crops.
  • Perennials have special pest and disease challenges because you can’t use crop rotation to minimize problems. Once some perennials catch a disease, they often have it forever, and need to be replaced.

Perennials Grown As Annuals

Some perennial crops are grown as annuals because they are easier to care for that way. For example, potatoes are technically perennials, but we grow them as annuals because pests and disease pressure in North America requires us to rotate potatoes often.

On the other hand, some plants we grow as annuals do quite well as perennials, like kale, which will get leggy but over-winter quite well.

Cultivating Perennial Vegetables

One way to incorporate perennial veggies into your garden is to expand the edges of an already established garden. Simple extend an existing garden bed by 3 or 4 feet and plant a border of perennials there.

Or, if you already grow a perennial ornamental border or foundation shrubs, consider integrating some perennial vegetables, such as sea kale or sorrel. Many have attractive leaves or flowers to enhance the landscape.

You can also take advantage of currently unused areas of your landscape, matching the conditions to the appropriate perennial. There are some perennials, like wild leeks, that will grow in shady, wet or cool conditions where you couldn’t ordinarily grow food!

If you’re already growing perennial vegetables and want to take your garden or homestead to the next level, consider Permaculture gardening.

By imitating nature’s ecosystems, this approach promotes greater partnerships between plants, soil, insects and wildlife. In Permaculture designs, edible vegetables, herbs, fruiting shrubs and vines grow as an understory to taller fruit and nut trees. This technique is sometimes called “layering” or building a “guild.”

Layers or Guilds need to be built over a couple of years. In the first year, plant fruit trees as the outposts around your property. That same year and over the next several years, use sheet mulching to prepare planting areas beneath the trees for the understory plants. Sheet mulch a 2- to 3-foot-radius around each fruit tree the first year and gradually increase the mulched area as the trees grow.

After the first year, you can begin planting the mulched area with perennial vegetables, fruiting shrubs and vines. (For more on this method, see Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture.)

20 Perennial Vegetables for North American Gardens

There are many perennials crops that are known and loved by gardeners everywhere, including these ten common ones:

  1. raspberries, blueberries and other berry bushes
  2. asparagus
  3. rhubarb
  4. kale (usually grown as an annual)
  5. garlic (usually grown as an annual)
  6. radicchio (usually grown as an annual)
  7. horseradish
  8. globe artichokes
  9. lovage
  10. watercress

But there are actually hundreds of perennial fruits and vegetables that will grow in temperate and warm climates like are found in North America!

Perennial Vegetables by Eric Toensmeier is the undisputed bible on this subject. With hundreds of full-color pages covering over 100 perennial crops that you can grow at home, you will be amazed and inspired to try something new in your garden every Spring!

For each plant, this gorgeous reference includes range maps, color photos, climate and historical information, complete instructions for how to raise, tend and harvest, and even recipes and cooking ideas.

Perennial vegetables make the perfect complement to annuals in the garden, and this book will show you lots of ways to incorporate them into both your landscape and pantry.

Here are ten delicious, easy-to-grow perennial vegetables you may not know about yet. I’ve selected these from among dozens of perennial vegetables carefully described in Perennial Vegetables for taste, ease of cultivation and cooking, and broadest climate range.

Some of the following perennials grow wild in many parts of North America, but because they are over-harvested or they grow in fragile landscapes, it is usually better and more reliable to cultivate your own patch at home. That way you can also plant special cultivars of these wild edibles, carefully selected for taste and adapted for garden conditions. (See nursery list in Resources, below.)

No gardener or homesteader serious about growing their own food should be without some of these perennials in their landscape!

11. Bunching or Egyptian Onions

Egyptian Walking Onions
Egyptian Walking Onions

Some types of onions, such as the fall-planted bunching and Egyptian onions, continue to produce new onions even when some are harvested. The Egyptian onion (Allium cepa var. viviparum) produces small bulbils at the top of its stalk in late summer. You can use these tiny onions as they are, or plant them in the fall to grow more Egyptian onions. Zones 4-8.

12. Daylilies

garden daylily is an edible perennials

As any gardener will tell you, daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) thrive on neglect. So much so, they have naturalized across the United States. While they are primarily grown as ornamentals in North America, they are grown as a vegetable in Asia, harvested for their daily profusion of flower buds, which are used like green beans. The flowers themselves are served in salads or battered and fried. Zones 2-10.

13. Good King Henry

good king henry leaves are edible perennials
Good King Henry

Good King Henry (Chenopodium bonus-henricus) is a traditional European vegetable known for its tasty shoots, leaves and flower buds. This spinach relative grows in full sun or partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. Harvest the tender shoots in spring. Hardy to Zone 3.

14. Groundnut

Native to eastern North America, groundnut (Apios Americana) is a nitrogen-fixing, 6-foot vine that bears high-protein tubers that taste like nutty-flavored potatoes. Grow groundnut vines near a shrub (as support) in a moist site that receives full sun or partial shade. Harvest in fall. Hardy to Zone 3.

15. Jerusalem Artichoke

sunchoke root

In the same family as sunflowers, Jerusalem artichokes (Helianthus tuberosus, also called sunchokes) are grown for their underground tubers. You can eat them raw or cooked like potatoes. Their charming yellow flowers attract beneficial insects to the garden.

Jerusalem artichokes are vigorous plants that spread by underground rhizomes and may become difficult to eradicate. Some gardeners consider them invasive. Zones 4-9.

16. Ostrich Fern

close up image of fern fiddleheads
Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads

Many gardeners grow Ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris) for their ornamental value, not realizing that they can be grown for their delicious, early Spring fiddleheads, which are a coveted delicacy in fine dining restaurants nationwide. (Fiddleheads pictured at the top.) They love cool, shady spots and are very hardy from Zones 2-8.

17. Ramps or Wild Leeks

Ramps are an onion relative (Allium tricoccum) that grows wild in deciduous forests east of the Mississippi, emerging every Spring. They are a local delicacy that many people forage from the wild. How much easier to simply grow your own? Leaves and bulbs are both edible. Grow in a shady border in moist loam, or naturalize beneath trees. Hardy to Zone 4.

18. Scarlet Runner Beans

Scarlet Runner Beans
Scarlet Runner Beans

Scarlet runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus) are usually grown as ornamentals in most people’s gardens, but they are quite edible and nutritious, both as green beans and, later, as dried beans. The flowers, young leaves and tubers are also edible when cooked.

Some Scarlet Runner beans plants have been known to live 20 or more years, practically taking over a garden! Hardy to Zone 4.

19. Sea Kale

sea kale is an excellent edible perennial in the garden
Sea Kale

Sea Kale (Crambe maritime) is sometimes grown as an ornamental for its gray-blue leaves and white flowers on 3-foot-tall plants. The shoots, young leaves and flowers are edible, too. It grows and tastes just like regular kale, but has a more bushy habit in the garden. Hardy to Zone 4.

20. Sorrel

sorrel leaves
French Sorrel

Sorrel is a perennial herb with tart, lemon-flavored leaves used for soups, stews, salads, and sauces. The two main sorrels grown are common sorrel, Rumex acetosa, and French sorrel, Rumex scutatus. They are relatives of rhubarb, and the leaves contain small amounts of oxalic acid that’s not harmful when consumed in small quantities, (unless you are sensitive to oxalates).

Sorrel tastes best in early spring; it becomes bitter as the weather warms. It’s a delicacy that is hard to find in markets because it wilts shortly after harvest. Garden sorrel is hardy to Zone 5; French sorrel is hardy to Zone 6.


Perennial seeds and plants can be hard to find, depending on where you live. Here are some resources to get you started.



Online Reference

What perennial vegetables do you grow? Let us know in the comments!

83 thoughts on “20 Perennial Vegetables to Plant Once for Years of Food”

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  1. The Muffin Man

    Im currently sprouting ponderosa lemons and have about 175 in dirt with about 20-40 more to plant. I’ve got 40 acres to work with so I’m planning on other perennials down the road

  2. In Paradise Lot, the authors discuss sea kale quite a bit as a hardy winter vegetable. For nitrogen fixing shrubs that are non-invasive, try Goumi. I’m putting goumi between my fruit trees in the spring. I planted sweet cicily seeds in the fall around my “fruit island.” Can’t wait to try some Egyptian walking onions!

  3. Small Foot Print makes you feel like Family and is the best Eco-Friendly blog on the internet, I love reading every post, I was even encouraged to go #zerowaste myself , starting with http://bit.ly/BambooStraws_ such a simple and inexpensive way to start healing our planet. #EnvoronmentalRevolution

  4. Josephine Marie Howland

    We have wild blackberry and raspberry growing all over our place. A few wild blueberries, but we have a wild place to pick them in large quantities. Our rhubarb has not done well, so we are thinking of moving it. My husband just went fiddlehead picking last night. We go to an area that gets flooded by a river in the spring where the fiddleheads grow profusely. We love to forage for wild plants.

  5. I have moved house with a large vegetable patch which is now overgrown. Should I dig everything up and start again except for those that I know (strawberries, rhubarb and asparagus) or should I leave things to see if they do anything? Some things look like they are not weeds and others obviously weeds. The previous owners were keen gardeners but I’m terribly green about home grown produce and what can be left to grow for another year. Any help would be appreciated

  6. I only see 10 of the 20 supposedly in this article and wonder where i click to get to the second page of vegetables from 11 to 20 ??????

    1. The first ten were listed at the top of the article: raspberries, blueberries and other berry bushes, asparagus, rhubarb, kale, garlic, radicchio, horseradish, globe artichokes, lovage and watercress.

  7. Linda Brodie

    Up here in mid Ontario, I grow rhubarb, sorrel, Egyptian onions, , Jerusalem Artichokes, lovage, chives, garlic chives, plus herbs and annual vegetables, and haskap berries, red and black currants and gooseberries.

  8. You didn’t mention hosta! We have been enjoying the early shoots of hosta in the spring for a few,up years now. They’re delicious and prolific!

  9. We’ve been trying to get on board here in 7B. We have: hosta, rhubarb (so far), longevity spinach (new this year), sea kale, skirret, yacon, asparagus, and garlic, along with any berries, trees, and other shrubs we can manage to find or start from seed. We’ve had a lot of disappointments and critter problems, but love the challenge and feeling of success and accomplishment that comes with the permaculture/forest garden ideals. I wish you all adventure and success!

  10. I grow New Zealand Spinach. It is a vine-like ground cover, that my father remembers from his childhood. Give it a bit of shade (like under my grapefruit tree) and it will spread everywhere, producing lots of meals. Not actually a type of spinach, it is listed in Wikipedia as Tetragonia tetragonioides, a leafy groundcover also known as Botany Bay spinach, Cook’s cabbage, k?kihi, sea spinach, and tetragon. Delicious, and doesn’t cook down to nothing, like real spinach does.

    1. Scarlet runner beans contain less of the toxin lectin phytohaemagglutinin than do kidney beans, which is why both scarlet runner beans and kidney beans should only be eaten cooked. After thorough cooking, both of these beans are fine for consumption.

  11. What an exciting post! I can’t wait until we can implement permaculture principles in our own garden. Pinned this for future reference. The vegetables you outline are inspiring!

  12. I grow quite a few “perennial” vegetables. But many of them are not perennial in the strict sense of the word but annuals or biennials that self seed.

    Bronze leaf Fennel (will become a weed if allowed to seed) used for the leaves, not a bulb.

    Swiss Chard (started with Bright Lights but has become basic cream colored stem, tastes good. This tells me that the other colors are not nearly as vigoroous as the original) biennial

    Kale (Red Russian, Ragged Jack) the only variety that self seeds and survives our Michigan winter, also the best variety for Kale Chips

    Jerusalem Artichoke (talked to a vendor at the local Farmers Market yesterday who had plants for sale, she said that she cuts off the header from part of her plot and then the plants put out twice as many top shoots for twice as many flowers with shorter stems perfect for vases

    Mustard greens


    Egyptian Walking Onion (from my grandmother’s garden many years ago)

    Daylilies (haven’t eaten them will have to try them, almost in bud)

    Ginger (native wild) great as a ground cover and a little milder than ginger from the store

    Scarlet Runner bean as an annual – will see if it comes back next year as a perennial or self seeder

    And then there are all the herbs

    I live in town and have a tiny city lot. We also have a lawn with real grass for the dogs. It is easy to incorporate perennial veggies in flower beds. There are no raised beds so as far as anyone walking by thinks we just have beautiful landscaping.

  13. Just saying . for those of you who like the wild blackberry try getting you some Dewberries they ripen faster and earlier and no thorns and lower plants .

  14. I have some sort of Allium in my garden. It’s been divided and spread around the house and its reseeded itself prolifically too! There’s tons of it! Also I use garlic chives, which I call “yard onions” because they always grow in the lawn lol. We have lots of lilies, though I’ve only ever eaten my tiger lilies. I didn’t know the regular yellow day lilies were edible too! Good to know 😉 we have camellia bushes too, but I have not made tea yet. Still working on getting them established well. I planted several fruit trees (apple, peach, apricot, plum…) but the deer are doing a number on them. The plum tree is the only one I’m sure is doing well. I’m a little concerned about the others. Any suggestions for keeping deer from eating young fruit tree branches and bark? I have lots of mint and lemon thyme in the flower beds and I’m planning on harvesting rose hips from my roses for tea 🙂 and there’s a wild passion fruit vine around the corner that I flavor kombucha with once the fruit is ripe! Yummy wild 😀

    1. To stop the deer from munching away at your trees all you need to do is blant a thorny vine or two about a foot and a half away from the base of the tree. I use black Berry’s. The deer might actually be helping you anyway. You don’t want the tree producing fruit until it’s fully matured. It takes away from its growth.

    2. Deer! Get some bars of “Irish Spring Bar Soap”; put them in old white crew socks; attach them to the branches of the trees (or to the trunks) so they hang down or to stake in the vegetable/flower garden. They do not dissolve quickly. They are nontoxic to the vegetation, ground and/or to you (despite the smell). Deer don’t like the smell and will usually leave the vegetation alone. Still, watch out for the ticks the deer bring into your yard. Lyme Disease isn’t any fun.

      1. I find that can work well, but doesn’t always work, especially when they are really hungry. A fence is usually your best bet.

    3. We found blood meal repellent didks thst worked against the deer. They might run quick thru the garden, but don’t stop to eat. We see them around, but not close to the garden!

  15. Hostas. The young leaves are so tasty. Balloon flower for the roots. Edible chrysanthemums and chives. Both so prolific I have to make sure they doesn’t take over the garden. Autumn olive. The bush can survive most climates and the berries have about 20 times the Lycopine of tomatoes and so much pectin I use it for jelling other fruits.

    1. These are great ones! Thanks for adding them! But readers, please do note that Autumn olive is invasive in parts of the United States.

    2. Does this apply to a specific variety of hosta, or are all varieties edible? I have been watching Geoff Lawton videos and I am hard at planning my long term food forest.

  16. survivalgardener

    I’ve been working on compiling a survival plant database that’s comprised of mostly perennial vegetables. We’ve been doing it in Costa Rica for a couple years not and learning a lot. It’s crazy how productive you can be with such little input! These amazing crops in addition to our aquaponics has made the homestead really productive. http://survivalgardener.com

  17. I have so many questions! One big one is about regeneration: for the ostrich ferns, if you’re cutting off the fiddles, aren’t you just taking the plant before it grows into something that would look nice in your yard? Similar question with the daylilly bulbs – aren’t you digging up the plant and terminating it when you eat it? For kale — we’ve had the same kale in our yard for a year, and lately it’s been growing buds and trying to flower. The shape of the plants has changed dramatically, and the leaves are getting skinnier. I took that as a sign to pull them. No?

    1. Matthew Thomson from Canberra

      You Americans astound me. Here in Australia we take flowering as a sign that we will collect seed soon, not as a sign to disregard a plant.

      Obviously you do not eat ALL of the ostrich fern or ALL of the day lilly, that would be counter productive. Instead you eat some and leave some. It really can’t be more simple.

      1. Matthew you are absolutely right!

        Best to remember the importance of the teaching moment over the frustrating lack of common Sense.

        As for you Toni my dear, when a plant is about to make seeds(which you can harvest and dry and store instead of having to ever buy) the plant will change, it’s putting all it’s energy into reproducing. You can cut the plant back( YouTube it….super great videos with method, many opinions, use what you like) or let it go! Collect the seeds and start over. Alternately just let the plant do it’s thing..remember to keep a journal! Always write down your observations…it will help in coming years.

        Best of luck to you dear!

        1. …frustrating lack of common sense. Rude, and wishing the “dear” best of luck does nothing to counteract such poor manners. This is a safe place, for pete’s sake.

    2. Native Indians used to harvest Fiddleheads and they would take 3 in the group, leaving tobacco leaves as a blessing.
      The tobacco would help fertilize ferns during the season.

  18. Thanks for this article. With limited garden space and too much backyard shade this definitely add some options. Just ordered the book for my Kindle and can’t wait to read it.

  19. older thread but I still wanted to mention that I have a tiny cherry tomato that grows like grapes in bunches and comes back every year from seed in zone 3. It was a wild tomato from salt spring seeds, and there are so many fruits that they cover the ground in the fall. Come spring I have to actually pull tomato plants as weeds. A very tasty tiny tomato that is very frost resistant. I use for salads and juice and drying and smoking. They are too juicy for paste making. Not a true perennial here but gives very early tomatoes even if you do nothing but let them grow where they sprout

    1. Name pierre roy

      pouvez vous me vendre des graines de ces mini tomates ou bien ou puis-je m’en procurer. Merci et bonne récolte .

      Pierre Roy

    2. Please tell me more about this tomato plant. I live in Nova Scotia Canada. It sounds like it might grow here.

    3. I do not know how old this thread is, but…do you have and would you be willing to part with some of those “tomato weed” seeds. I really would like to get my hands on a tomato that is verifiable cold hardy. I am in zone 4, really close to zone three. I am a transplant from another zone and have been trying to get my hands dirty again, but the last few years I have been trying have yielded meager results at best. The season is a lot shorter than where I am originally from and I have been buying seedlings and transplanting in a small yard area. I have gotten the permaculture bug and am trying to go perennial with some edible vegetables and flowers, along with some herbs.

  20. I wish scarlet runner beans were hardy to zone 4! However, all the literature suggests that they will be perennial above about zone 9, in places with very mild winters. In zone 4, I can barely get them to ripen in time to save the seeds for planting next year.

    1. Thanks for the comment! I will scratch that one off my list for now. I will not totally disregard it though. I may be able to add it in somewhere along the way after I get going full steam.

  21. I will most definitely be picking up that book! -I do have to add that Hosta’s are very edible and delicious when the shoots are young and tender! H. Montana and H. Sieboldii are the two favored varieties.

  22. Nice article , however many people have animals like goats, cows and others that are allowed to graze – If there are any plants(rhubarb,fava beans,ferns) that might be dangerous to foraging livestock and or pets it would be nice to update the article with that info added. thank-you! Lynne

  23. Thanks for the info! I did not know scarlet runner beans were perennials either!
    Think I’ll plant some up against the trees between my yard & the neighbour’s & up against the fence on the other side.
    I also love my raspberries & even have some blackberries & got from the wild 🙂
    Have a few of the others mentioned here too & close to where I live we have fiddleheads & wild leeks.
    The leek leaves are milder than the bulbs. I freeze them (the bulbs too) which can be added to soups, stews and such in winter.
    A few leaves add a nice zest to salads when fresh.
    The slightly stronger older bulbs are nice pickled as well.
    Happy gardening & harvesting!

  24. Lori @ Our Heritage of Health

    I didn’t know Scarlet Runner beans and sorrel were perenniels! That’s really exciting because I grew both of those in my garden for the first time last summer. Once the weather gets warmer, I’ll have to be on the look-out to see if they come back again this year 🙂

    Thanks for sharing with Old-Fashioned Friday!

  25. Rebecca @ Natural Mothers Network

    What a great post Dawn! I am a great fan of watercress myself, but it’s tricky to grow unless you have running water I believe? Thank you for sharing your post with us and I hope to welcome you over at Seasonal Celebration again today! Rebecca @Natural Mothers Network x

    1. Thanks, Rebecca! Yes, watercress is a popular perennial water garden crop for those who have small ponds or other water features in their garden.

  26. We just moved, so we’re starting over with our garden. I’ve only just grown asparagus as a perennial but scarlett runner beans and kale both grow well here. I will be pinning this post for future reference. Thank you again for sharing at the HomeAcre Hop! Hope to see you tomorrow.

  27. Great list! We grow a very few (berries, kale, rhubarb, garlic).

    Thanks so much for sharing this with us at Eco-Kids Tuesday! Hope you come back and visit today!

  28. Thanks for the great information. I love my perennials and will have to incorporate more of the edible ones. 10 days till spring 🙂

  29. I can’t wait to have a garden! Apartment life can be so frustrating. Thank you for linking up with Wildcrafting Wednesdays!

    1. Some perennials, like Scarlet Runner beans, can be grown in pots on a balcony or patio, and transplanted later. If you have a little outdoor space, don’t give up on gardening!

  30. I recently purchased a copy of ‘Perennial Vegetables’. It’s incredible! I do have a couple to add. Down here in TX my fennel is going on its second year with bunches of new bulbs growing from the original plant and my chard is starting its fourth year.

  31. Great Article. I have both books and think they are wonderful resources. I’m planting a new vegetable garden this year. I’m putting in as many perennials as possible.

  32. Fantastic article! “Thrives on neglect” is the magic phrase for me. I seem to kill everything! 🙂 Visiting from the homeacre hop.

  33. Nancy@livininthegreen

    Thanks for loads of great information on perennial veggies! I have grown the Egyptian Onions but they have not come back…I will have to look into them more. 🙂

  34. Organic Aspirations

    Thanks for sharing this on Eco Kids. I’m preparing to garden right now, and I would like to expand and really think about using my space wisely this year. This really helps- Thanks! (I’m sharing on Facebook and Pinterest too!)

  35. Suburban Farm Girl

    Thank you for this list! So far, I have not started growing perennial vegetables but would like too. This information is helpful to know and I will have to check into that book. Thanks!


  36. Christine @ onceuponatimeinabedofwildflowers

    Thank you for this! I’m very excited to add some perennials (I’m thinking Scarlet Runner Beans) to my Tangle of Weeds… um… garden… this spring.

  37. Shelley Alexander

    Excellent article! I just shared this on my Facebook page so everyone can learn more about planting perennial vegetables. Thanks!

  38. This is so wonderful. I got Gaia’s Garden as a gift and have been VERY slowly reading it but haven’t really dug in yet. Thanks for the nudge. Just so sensible a way to garden.

  39. How nice to see fiddleheads heading this post! We harvest them wild here in New Brunswick, and they are my number one favourite veggie! I didn’t know much about other perennial edibles, thanks so much for the info!

      1. Liz Hutchinson

        Fiddlehead quiche is awesome. Just use a spinach quiche recipe and substitute with cooked fiddle heads.

  40. April @ The 21st Century Housewife

    I found this post fascinating. I had not thought about perennial vegetables in this much detail before. I adore asparagus and rhubarb, but was interested to learn about the many other perennials that are out there.

  41. We love having our perennial asparagus and berry bushes. I would love to see about doing some more. Thanks for the great info on this!



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